Under-the-radar watches are a treasure trove for smart collectors, offering exceptional value and the potential to resonate with collectors in the years ahead. These timepieces, often overlooked by mainstream attention, are the gems that seasoned dealers and collectors alike are eyeing. From neo-vintage classics of the 1980s and 1990s to overlooked references from storied names, these watches are poised to become the next big thing. Here, we delve into the world of under-the-radar watches, exploring the brands and timepieces that offer exceptional value and the potential to become the next big thing in the watch world.
The Art of Under-the-Radar Watchmaking
The answer to what constitutes an under-the-radar watch is subjective, depending on one's familiarity with the vast world of high-end watchmaking and personal collecting instincts. For some, it might mean once-revered maisons whose vintage pieces remain surprisingly attainable. For others, it’s the work of small but mighty independents poised to become the next F.P. Journe. And in today’s hype-driven market, it might even include overlooked models from mainstream houses that collectors are rediscovering after the frenzy fades.
The Dealers' Insights
Roberto Chiappelloni, owner of ManfrediJewels, highlights the allure of small independents and their craft. He praises the Grönefeld brothers for their amazing work and the Chinese company Atelier Wen for their stunning creations. Chiappelloni also keeps an eye on the upcoming release of a watch under the name of Renaud & Papi's Dominique Renaud, a watch with a big balance wheel and great credibility.
Sacha Davidoff, co-owner of Roy and Sacha Davidoff, takes a value-driven approach to buying. He seeks opportunities for value regardless of hype, focusing on neo-vintage classic watches from the 1980s to 1990s, such as round-case Audemars Piguets, Vacheron Constants, and Patek Philippes. Davidoff also highlights the potential of '90s Rolex and Zenith Daytonas, which have come down in price, making them great investments for the long term.
Kevin O'Dell, a collector and dealer, notices a growing appreciation for A. Lange & Söhne, particularly for older models from 1994 to the early 2000s. He also praises the work of Sylvain Berneron and the excitement surrounding older Breguets from the Brown era and early Chaumet-Daniel Roth era. O'Dell's attention is drawn to the Biver-Jacques Piguet era of Blancpain, with the Villeret models from the late 1980s and early 1990s offering great value.
James Lamdin, founder and vice president of vintage & pre-owned at Analog Shift, champions Movado, a brand with a rich legacy of making high-end timepieces between the 1920s and 1960s. Lamdin inherited a vintage 1960s Movado chronograph from his grandfather, sparking his interest in the brand. He believes Movado is an undiscovered country, offering a wide range of timepieces, from entry-level to highly complicated pieces and truly artistic creations.
Chris Daaboul, founder of EsperLuxe, highlights the brilliance of Romain Gauthier, known for precision engineering, sublime finishing, and beautiful and well-thought-out movement architecture. Daaboul also praises Armin Strom for their innovative technical watchmaking and Moritz Grossmann for their artisanal watchmaking from the Glashütte region, led by the formidable Christine Hutter.
Modern Picks
Miguel Sherlock, technical director of watchmakers at Ben Bridge Jeweler, introduces the Tudor Ranger 36 mm, a watch that quietly becomes a favorite among collectors. Its 36 mm case, comfortable wrist fit, and versatile design make it a standout choice for those seeking an understated yet stylish timepiece.
In conclusion, the world of under-the-radar watches is a treasure trove of exceptional value and potential. From neo-vintage classics to independent creations, these watches are poised to become the next big thing in the watch world, offering a unique blend of history, craftsmanship, and value.
